Professional Website

Problem Nails "1 of 3 pages"
Page 1 of 3, Page 2 of 3, Page 3 of 3

Main Causes
, Solutions and notes on LIFTING

Also see Problem Nails "Two"
For: Cuticle Area..., Flip Up..., Nails Feel thin..., Peeling...,
Pterygium Stone..., Soaking off..., etc...

Back to
Nail FAQ's by Topic

   

Topic

 
Acrylic working together with Primer  
Acrylic & Primer working together & WHY?  
   
Air Bubbles or Air Pockets see Bubbles in the "Pink" Cuticle area
Allergic reactions  
An important detail about Etching...  see Lifting notes 1 & 2
   
Breaking &/or Cracking - see Cracking & Breaking
Bubbles in the "Pink" Cuticle area  
Burning - Primer & Burning... - see Allergic reactions
Burning - Red & Inflamed...  - see Allergic reactions
   
Center lifting or lifting in the Center - see Bubbles in the "Pink" Cuticle area
Contamination - see Yellowing & Contamination
Contamination - see Specks - Crystals - Clumps - Particles
Clumps - Particles - Specks - Crystals see Specks - Crystals - Clumps - Particles
Cracking & Breaking - and Free-edge or Tips and Smiley-Face
Crystallization (crystallizing)  
Crystals - Clumps - Particles - Specks see Specks - Crystals - Clumps - Particles
Cuticle skin see Lifting notes 1 & 2
   
Disposable File System for Etching see Tammy's Disposable File System
Drill - How & When to Use the Drill see Lifting notes 1 & 2
   
Etching - What to use, How & Where... see Lifting notes 1 & 2
Fill-Lines & Shadows - also see Lifting causes
Itchy & Burning - see Allergic reactions
Inflamed Cuticles - see Allergic reactions
Keeping Brush for Nail Liquid "Clean"  
Lifting causes, plus Fill-Lines & "Shadows" see Lifting notes 1 & 2
Lifting Problems & Solutions - see Lifting causes & Lifting notes 1 & 2
Lifting - also see - Lifting & Cuticle notes... Problem Nails "Two"
Lifting - link to Talk of the Town article - 100% Lift-Free Nails article
Lifting - link to Nail Party Episode 24  
Lifting notes 1 & 2  
Neutralizing a primer reaction  
PEELING away from the acrylic nail  
Pockets in the Cuticle area of acrylic nail see Lifting notes 1 & 2
Popping off - see Lifting causes
Primer & Burning see Allergic reactions
Primer & Acrylic Liquid - see Acrylic & Primer working together & WHY?
Primer & Neutralizing see Neutralizing a primer reaction
Primer Application & Cleaning of the Primer Brush  
   
Reactions to acrylic nails - see Allergic reactions
Red, inflamed cuticles - see Allergic reactions
SKIN - getting Nail Liquid (monomer) on skin see Nail Problems 3 of 3
Shadows - see Lifting causes
Soaking off Acrylic nails  
Specks - Crystals - Clumps - Particles  
   
Temperature in the Salon - Hot or Cold  
Thick fingernails and Etching  
Thin fingernails and Etching  
Yellowing & Contamination -  
   


DRILL: How & When to Use the Drill: PDF file
Caution:
NEVER use a Drill to Etch the Natural Nail!  Drilling the top of the Natural Nail can cause thinning, lifting & sensitivity of the Natural Nail. 

The Drill is ONLY to be used to:

         Drill out the Smile-Line when doing a Pink & White "Backfill" using the Tammy Taylor "Carbide Pointed Pencil" bit (long or short) or the Tammy Taylor "Backfill Wheel" bit (2-week)

         Shorten the length of the acrylic nails using the "Carbide Barrel" bit (large or small) (medium or coarse).

         Smooth the natural fingernail that sometimes can separate from the acrylic under the free-edge using the "Carbide Barrel" bit (large or small) (medium or coarse).

         Clean the underside of the free-edge on the acrylic nails using the "Carbide Barrel" bit (large or small) (medium or coarse).

         Re-Shape the C-Curve using the "Carbide Barrel" bit (large or small) (medium or coarse)

Cautions with the Drill: Let's say the average speed is about 15,000 RPM's; this equals 250 revolutions per second.  When you place the drill bit on the natural fingernail, and count to one, the drill bit has already spun around 250 times.  In 250 revolutions, a lot of natural fingernail can be removed; thus thinning the natural fingernail

To Achieve Non-Lifting nails with the LEAST amount of Natural Nail Damage: 

         Etch with a file, such as the Tammy' Taylor "Purple Terminator 100-grit Etcher” file and use "wet" Tammy Taylor Nail Primer.

Directions: Etch little "Hills & Valleys" onto the surface of the natural nail that the acrylic product can flow into, thus creating a good sticking surface.

         And when you allow the "primer" to be wet when the acrylic is applied, the primer can mix with the acrylic, causing a chemical reaction that creates a strong adhesion to eliminate lifting of the acrylic nail product.

See... Disposable File System for Etching, in the Topic area above


Etching - What to use, How & Where:
1. Etch
the natural fingernail only with the Tammy Taylor "Purple Terminator" 100-grit file.  And only etch the natural fingernail in the direction in which the fingernail grows, from the free-edge to the cuticle, in a back & forth motion, with the Purple Terminator file.

2. Etch
the natural fingernail along the nail-groove & around the cuticle area with the Tammy Taylor "Pterygium Stone".  The Pterygium Stone removes pterygium skin that can cause the acrylic nails to lift around the edges.


*** An important detail to note when it comes to Etching & Application:
1.
Think about how you Etch: At the same time the Etching is being done, the cuticle skin is also being shoved back; from 1/32" of an inch to 1/16" of an inch (1/16 = 2/32 inch or 1.588 mm). 

2.
Fresh natural fingernail has just been exposed during Etching, as you shoved the cuticle skin back.  This fresh natural fingernail is moist, and acrylic will not stick to it properly.

3.
This is the reason that we say "Do Not Apply the acrylic product too close to the cuticle skin".

4. IF
acrylic is applied too close to the cuticle skin, the acrylic product will lift.

5. Solution:
When you apply the acrylic product, keep the acrylic away from the cuticle skin at least 1/32 of an inch (the thickness of 2-3 business cards).

6.
The "1/32 of an inch" is probably the most overlooked item when it comes to Etching the natural fingernail & applying the acrylic nail product.
     a. Reason why the "1/32 of an inch" is overlooked: Most Nail Technicians tend to be a bit of a perfectionist, and they feel that they must get the acrylic product right next to the cuticle skin, so their acrylic nails will look perfect.  Ring any bells?

7.
Keep in mind that although the cuticle skin was shoved back in the process of Etching; the cuticle skin will come forward after the client has washed & dried their hands a few times.  IF the acrylic product is applied too close to the cuticle, the cuticle skin will be able to grow out and on top of the acrylic product on the fingernail.  This can cause a humid environment which can allow for pseudomonas ("the greenies") to grow.

8.
The above items are a few ideas to think about when it comes to Etching & the Application of the acrylic nail product.

References to review in Tammy's Nail FAQ's by Topic:
1/32" of an inch -
see
Problem Nails "Two"
Cuticle Area Lifting - WHY? 1/32" of an inch -
see
Problem Nails "Two"
and see
Problem Nails "One" - Lifting causes...


 


NOTES:
Thin fingernails are smooth, and thin fingernails need more care when etching.  Always use the Etching file that Tammy suggests (see Etching).  Thin fingernails are weaker, so they need more product, because the strength is in the product. 

Note 1 on Thin fingernails: Be careful when you Etch a thin fingernail and you will have practically no lifting.  Because if lifting occurs, the thin fingernail will get thinner.  And the thinner a thin fingernail gets, the more easily acrylic with lift from the nail-plate.  Then the lifting will cause the thin fingernail to get even thinner. 
Note 2 on Thin fingernails: As you will note, a circle is developing.  Lifting equals thinning.  Whereas with proper Etching and preparation, you should get practically no lifting, thus no thinning of the natural fingernail.

Thick fingernails are porous, so thick fingernails etch more easily.  Thick fingernails are stronger, so the product can be applied thinner, because the strength is in the natural fingernail.


Cracking & Breaking – and Free-edge or Tips and Smiley-Face

Main Causes:
1) Too long
2) Too thin
3) Too flat
4) Filing too much
5) Over-filing sides
6) Filing the free-edge too oval
7) Nails are old

Note on Cracking & Breaking at the sides of the Smiley-Face:
  • The most common cause of cracking at the sides is over-filing the sides, at the smiley-face area.  Also making the sides too thin & too narrow when you are patting the White free-edge.
  • The cure for this is to practice making your White “free-edge” ball in the shape of a woman's flared dress skirt.
  • Practice with nail forms applied to Polish bottle lids & on Tammy's "Practice Sheet".  Making acrylic nails on Polish bottle lids is also great for practicing on your Backfills and using the drill.
  • The White free-edge ball will fit the smiley-face area of the fingernail.
  • The end of the White free-edge will be wider than the fingernail, like a flared skirt.
  • The sides of the White free-edge ball will drop slightly downwards on the nail form.
  • When you start filing, the free-edge will now be a little thicker on the sides, thus you will be able to file the sides without weakening the smiley-face area, and you will get an awesome C-Curve.
  • This "flared skirt" effect not only helps you make a really good C-Curve; this C-Curve is a very important aspect for keeping an acrylic nail strong, in between fills, even at lengths of 4, 5, 6 & 7 on the Tammy Taylor nail form.
  • We work a lot on this "flared skirt" technique in the 2-Day Advanced classes.


 


Yellowing & Contamination – 

Main Causes of Yellowing & Contamination:
1) Contaminated liquid and/or contaminated powder
2) Not using A+ Coat
3) Not removing all polish and top coats completely
4) Acrylic nails are old
5) Sunscreens & chemicals
6) Medications
7) Do Not Use Pump dispensers for acrylic nail liquid
8) Do Not Use a Pre-prime
9) Do Not store acrylic nail liquid and acrylic nail powder in a too close proximity to each other.  See below for storage notes.

Note about #3: To make sure the acrylic nails are clean of top coats; after removing top coats with Tammy' s "Polish Remover", smooth the top of the acrylic nails with Tammy's "180-grit Long-Lasting Zebra" file.

Note on #4: About every 2nd or 3rd fill, the top of the acrylic nails should be filed down a good amount, to help prevent yellowing as the acrylic nails get older (see #4).

Note about #5: Use Z-Coat to protect the A-Coat.

Note about #8: Do not use any type of spray between Step #6 & Step #8.

Storage Notes:
Liquid (monomer) - Since fumes can escape from the acrylic liquid bottle, acrylic liquid should be stored on a shelf above the acrylic powder. 

Rule of thumb: Liquid's should be stored on shelves above powder's.
Primer can be stored on the same shelf as the liquid.

Powder (polymer) should be stored on the lower shelves, as acrylic liquid fumes can cause discoloration and clumping to the acrylic powder. 

Forms should be stored on the lower shelves, to keep any liquid fumes from damaging the adhesive on the forms.  

Added note: DO NOT LOAN out your bottles or jars of products, especially your Liquid (monomer).  Sometimes a Technician in a hurry may dip their brush into your liquid bottle to make a nail.  This can cause the liquid to get contaminated.  Contamination can cause yellowing.

Solution for Liquid (monomer):
Squirt a little liquid into their Dappen Dish.
Solution for Powder (polymer):
Scoop a little powder into their jar.
Solution for...: Put whatever the Technician needs into their container.

Also:
If you loan out your brush, it may come back with a few hairs missing.

Basically:
All of your products & supplies are your Working Tools.  You are responsible for your working tools.  Your clients suffer if your tools are not up to par.

Note: No matter how good their intentions, other people have a tendency NOT to have the same respect for your tools as you do. 
Rule of Thumb: Never loan out anything that you do not have a spare!  And never expect someone else to treat your tools as kindly as you do.  It is simply not practical, and in the end you are responsible for your own tools

Tammy Taylor Products Needed:

- Ceramic Dappen Dish -Black
- Conditioning Polish Remover
              Your Choice of Fragrance
- Non-Lifting Nail Primer
- Tammy's Towelette's
- Primer Bottle Holder
- A-Coat
 

Specks - Crystals - Clumps - Particles

Q: Specks or Crystals, Clumps, Particles in acrylic powder

A: Any Specks or Crystals, Clumps, Particles in acrylic powder is usually from leaving the powder container open during filing.  To remove from this from your powder, use a very fine sifter, usually you can find this type of sifter at a kitchen store.

 


Crystallization

Q: Crystallization (crystallizing)

A: Some acrylic products crystallize in cold weather, Tammy Taylor acrylic "does not" crystallize; that is one of the reasons it is so popular with Nail Tech's who live in cold areas.

Rule of thumb for acrylic nail liquid: The optimum temperature is 72 F degrees; when liquid is colder, the acrylic nails set up slower; when hotter, the acrylic nails set up quicker.

Note:
Even though the room temperature may be 68 F to 72 F, the Client's finger temperature may be quite warm or quite cold, also causing a difference is set-up time.

 


Lifting causes: plus Fill-Lines & "Shadows"
& Popping off (another term for Lifting)

Main Causes for "Lifting":
1) Making acrylic nails Too long
2) Not etching properly with 100-grit Purple Terminator file & Not etching with the T.T. Pterygium Stone, which etches away the pterygium skin around the cuticle area.

Lifting notes 1 & 2:
Lifting Note 1: There is a thin membrane of skin called "pterygium", and this membrane of skin is extremely thin, and it covers the keratin cells of the fingernail as the fingernail grows out from the matrix, underneath the cuticle skin.  This membrane of skin needs to be etched from the nail-plate, otherwise lifting can occur, especially when the Technician places the acrylic too close to the cuticle skin.  (keep acrylic away at least 1/32 of an inch; about the thickness of 2-3 business cards)
Lifting Note 2: After Etching with Tammy's Purple Terminator 100-grit file, it is best to then Etch along the nail groove and around the cuticle skin area with Tammy's "Pterygium Stone".

3) Applying acrylic product after 2nd coat of primer has dried.

4) Product placed too close to cuticle skin (acrylic must stay away from cuticle skin at least 1/32" of an inch)  (1/32" of an inch is about the thickness of 2-3 business cards).

5) Using a Pre-Prime can cause lifting - Do Not use pre-primes - And Do not use a spray pre-prime to spray the fingernails.

6) Product too thick at cuticle - You must not be able to feel a bump at the cuticle area with your own fingernail.  When the acrylic product is too thick near the cuticle skin; the acrylic will not be flexible and will not bend as the natural fingernail bends.  When the acrylic will not bend or flex, the acrylic will have a tendency to lift.  (Lifting at the cuticle area can cause pseudomonas, aka "the greenies".)  Pseudomonas article is in Tammy's "Nail FAQ's by Topic", under "pseudomonas" or "greenies". 
Link to "Greenies" article "Fungus - Mold - Bacteria. 
Link to "Nail FAQ's by Topic".


7) Using a cosmetic brush can cause lifting.  Never use a cosmetic brush to dust off the fingernail after Etching with the Purple Terminator 100-grit file, or the Pterygium Stone.

8) The Tammy Taylor 'Pterygium Stone' is very important to help remove the pterygium skin from the surface of the natural fingernail, along the nail-groove & around the cuticle skin area.

9) When "acrylic" nails are old, the acrylic can start lifting. 
     Solution: Soak off old acrylic and apply a new set of Pink & White acrylic nails.

10) Mixing product brands from different manufacturers can cause lifting.

11) Do not nip unless it stands up and waves at you.  Over-nipping can cause lifting.

12) An often overlooked cause of Lifting is contaminated primer.  Although rare, this can happen, especially if the Technician does not wipe their primer brush after priming the fingernail before placing the primer brush back into the primer bottle.  Please see "Primer Application & Cleaning of the Primer Brush".

Fill-Lines & Shadows:
Note 1: Lifting can cause fill-line shadows.
  After you eliminate lifting, you will have fewer problems with fill-line shadows.  If you still have fill-lines: At fill-in time, apply primer to the acrylic before filing.  The primer will soften the acrylic so you can file the acrylic smooth using the T.T. Long-Lasting Zebra 180-grit file.

Note 2: Another cause for fill-line shadows is over-filing the pink, to get rid of the fill-line.  This can cause the natural fingernail to heat up from the friction, which can then cause the acrylic, ever-so-slightly, to lift while you are still filing; which makes it seem that you will never be able to file the acrylic smooth to the natural fingernail; as the acrylic continues to lift, even ever so slightly.

Note 2a: The way to counter-act this occurrence is to apply a small dab of primer on the acrylic to soften it; then file (using the Tammy Taylor 'Long-Lasting Zebra' 180-grit file); this allows you to file the acrylic lightly to gently smooth the acrylic to the natural fingernail and without friction, as friction causes heat, and further lifting.

Acrylic working together with Primer...
Basically: In order to have acrylic & primer work together properly; both products must be
wet.
1. When the primer dries, the primer will not mix with the acrylic to cause the acrylic to
get thin enough to flow into the “Hills & Valleys” that were made when the natural fingernail was Etched using the T.T. Purple Terminator 100-grit file.

     Note 1:
When acrylic is too thick or the primer has dried, the acrylic will sit on top of the "Hills & Valleys", and the acrylic will "NOT flow" down into the Hills & Valleys.

     Note 2: The slightest air gap can allow for moisture to creep in, and can cause lifting.  Moisture can cause "the greenies" pseudomonas - see "Mold".

     Note 3: This slight air gap can also cause the acrylic nails to be more susceptible to
lifting, because the acrylic will not be adhering to all of the nail-plate, like into the "Hills & Valleys".

     Solution: Primer must be wet and acrylic must be wet, for both to mix properly, to cause
up to 100% adhesion to the nail-plate; including, all the way to the bottom of the "hills & valleys". 

2. Caution: When the primer is too wet, the primer will flow underneath the cuticle skin and
cause burning.  Being too wet should cause the client to remove their hands because of
the burning, and you would not be able to proceed with the application of the acrylic nails.  Whereas in either case, the primer being too wet should not cause lifting, but primer being too wet can cause burning.

3. Consistency is such a major factor in the application of acrylic nails, that Tammy has
made a video dedicated to “Consistency” – “Faster Nails with Product Consistency” video
and it is now on DVD.
     a. Also see “Consistency” in Tammy’s “Nail FAQ’s by Topic”.

4. PS: Do you have one of Tammy’s ‘Product Consistency’ “Practice Sheets”?

5. If you do not have a Practice Sheet, please go to Tammy’s “Nail FAQ’s by Topic”,
then click on "P" to go to "Practice Sheet".  On the Practice Sheet page, you will find
downloadable PDF files in English, Spanish & French.

Acrylic & Primer working together & WHY?
Primer & acrylic working together & Why?
And WHY, must primer be WET, when acrylic is applied?

     Note: Primer must be wet when the acrylic is applied
.  When the primer is wet, the primer mixes with the acrylic; thus thinning the acrylic that touches the nail-plate, allowing the acrylic that is touching the nail-plate to flow into the "Hills & Valleys", that were made when the fingernail nail-plate was etched with the T.T. Purple Terminator 100-grit file.

PEELING away from the acrylic nail

Peeling - the natural nail is peeling away from the sculptured acrylic nail, under the free-edge. This usually happens after about 3-6 months.  Soaking off and applying a new set of acrylic nails should be the solution.  Tammy suggests replacing acrylic nails every 3-4 months.

How to fix this?

Without a Drill: Only do step #2 and step #3.
With a Drill: Do all 3 steps (step #1, step #2 and step #3)
     Step #1. Very lightly, drill the natural fingernail underneath the free-edge just to smooth the natural fingernail to the acrylic.
     Step #2. Apply a thin coating of glue around the edge natural fingernail, where the natural fingernail has peeled away.
     Step #3. Coat the underside of the free-edge with a very thin coating of product. This will seal the natural fingernail to the acrylic nail. 

Products needed to make a nail repair: Tip & Repair Glue 1/2 oz.

Also see: Flip-Up, Curve-Down and Curve-Away fingernails in Problem Nails "Two"


Soaking off Acrylic nails

Acrylic: You should only need to soak off acrylic nails, and to apply a new set every 3 to 4 months.

Prizma: The Tammy Taylor "Prizma" acrylic product is the same as regular acrylic: Soak off every 3 to 4 months.  Even though the Prizma coloring is dark on most of the Prizma colours, it should still be apparent if the acrylic nail is lifting around the cuticle skin area.

Soaking off: see “Nail FAQ’s by Topic” – click on “P” for “Prescriptions”, then click on “Soaking Off an Acrylic Nail”. This is only one nail, but it is the same for all acrylic nails. If you choose to soak off all of the acrylic nails at once, you would need a little larger container. 

Liquid differences: Soaking off acrylic nails is typical for ALL of the Tammy Taylor acrylic liquids (monomer). Also in “Nail FAQ’s by Topic” – click on “D” to go to “Differences in Liquids” for a full description of the Liquids: Original, Summer, A+, Xtra-Adhesion and odor-less. You will also find a combination chart explaining how you can mix the liquids & powders, and the results you can expect from the mixing.

Note: The Tammy Taylor “Prizma” colours can be applied using all of her liquids.


Bubbles in the "Pink" nail-body area -
Why? & Solution or Prevention!  Also "Air Pocket"...
Also
"Center" lifting or lifting in the center of the Pink nail-body

Cause 1: Cuticle ball of acrylic product was too dry, or the primer had dried.  When the nail-body area of the fingernail is too dry, the acrylic product will not flow properly, into the "Hills & Valleys" you made when you Etched the fingernail.  This can also cause lifting.

Cause 2: Cuticle area gets little air bubbles in the acrylic product.  This can be caused by patting; most commonly these little bubbles are caused by not stroking properly. 
     Note: Although you may at times need to poke gently at the pink acrylic product on the nail-body of the nail-bed; Tammy always stresses "stroking" of the "Pink", and if the consistency is correct, you should not have to poke at the pink. 
     Note 2: When you have to poke or move the "pink" acrylic product with your brush, the "pink" acrylic product was applied too dry; consistency is the key.

Cause 3: When stroking with a brush that has product clogged in the hairs, the product in the rush hairs can create a type of suction.  This suction action result is similar to patting. 

Air Pocket: When a Nail Technician is really fast at applying acrylic nails, they MUST be very aware of the temperature of their liquid, and of the air flow in the Salon.  Doing acrylic nails quickly, and not paying attention to consistency can cause air pockets underneath the Pink acrylic product on the nail-body.

 

Keeping Brush for Nail Liquid "Clean":
Brush Note 1 (Cause 3):
The reason a brush gets clogged with product is because the brush hairs are NOT thoroughly dipped into the liquid in the dappen dish.  The brush hairs MUST be dipped so the brush hairs are all the way into the liquid, totally submerging the brush hairs, at least all the way up to the silver colored ferrule. 

Brush Note 2: When a container for the liquid is used that does not allow the brush to be totally submerged, the brush hairs cannot get thoroughly wet.  This means the brush will clog with product build-up quicker. 
     Whoops!
This means that pump-up type liquid containers do not allow the brush hairs to get thoroughly wet.

Brush Note 3: If the liquid gets thick (contaminated with too many powder particles) the liquid will not flow into the brush hairs properly.  Thus, the brush hairs will become sticky & gummy.  In this sticky & gummy condition, the brush hairs will not stroke the acrylic product properly. 
     What happens? The brush hairs will appear to attract the acrylic product like a magnet, and instead of the brush hairs stroking smoothly, the brush hairs will tug & pull the acrylic product away from the fingernail.  The Technician can also get frustrated. 
     Solution: Replace the liquid & clean the brush. 
     Reality: This means that any Technician having more than 1 or 2 clients, must have at least 2-3 brushes.  Most established Technicians will acquire 5-6 favorite brushes, and even have several more.  A Technician will quickly realize they MUST have an extra brush or two, just in case a brush needs to be cleaned NOW.

Brush Note 4: When the brush hairs are not thoroughly wet, and when you are patting the free-edge, the product will keep sticking to the brush.  This makes it really hard to make a proper free-edge, and the sticky brush will cause the Technician to take too much time.  Also the Smiley-Face can set up before you get a chance to make the curve of the smiley-face.  Again, too much time is wasted when the brush hairs are not thoroughly wet.

Caution Note 1: If the brush hairs are not thoroughly wet when applying the acrylic product, the brush hairs will be more susceptible to attracting acrylic product into the brush hairs.  This is called "clogged brush".  The only remedy is to soak the brush in brush cleaner for at least 10 minutes, or until all acrylic product is removed. 

Caution Note 2: This is one of the reasons most Technicians doing acrylic nails will have at least 3-4 brushes; that have already been cleaned, and are ready to use immediately. 

Cost $$$ Factor: Down-time will cost the Technician $money in wasted timePlus, if time is wasted on one client, the clients that follow will also suffer because the Technician will be running late.  Running late is not a good way to show professionalism.  Thus, running late can cause clients not to want to pay very much for their services.  Note: Running late can mean NO Tip!  Everyone suffers.

Solution: Keep your brush clean.  Keep your brush wet.  Keep your liquid fresh.  And this keeps appointments on time.  Also, being on time will help keep energy levels on an even keel.  Thus you will look forward to coming to work.  Thus again; the days will be more relaxing when your tools all work properly and the product flows smoothly.


Pockets in the Cuticle area of acrylic nail

Cause 1: Cuticle ball of acrylic product was too dry, or the primer had dried.  When this area of the fingernail is too dry, the acrylic product will not flow properly, into the "Hills & Valleys" you made when you Etched the fingernail.  This can also cause lifting.

Cause most common: The nail-body acrylic product balls were too dry. 

Solution 1: The brush hairs need to have more liquid in order to pick up a wet nail-body acrylic ball.

Solution 2: See article above: "Bubbles in the Cuticle area - Why? & Solution!"


Allergic reactions - Reactions - Primer & Burning
Reactions to acrylic nails - and Primer & Burning
Primer & Burning - and Reactions to acrylic nails

(red, inflamed, itchy & burning sensation of the fingers and or cuticles)

Note: If a Client has an "allergic" type reaction, discontinue services.

Primer:
The biggest "heat" problems: Too much
primer "and" primer applied too close to cuticle skin.

Ball(s) too big:
Next problem area:
Adding too big of an acrylic ball onto the nail-body. When acrylic is hardening, the acrylic becomes "hot"; and when the nail-body ball is too "big" it can become too hot.
Note: Tammy Taylor teaches in her Classes to always apply the nail-body using 3-small balls as the most effective way to building an acrylic nail. This 3-ball method on the nail-body also helps with consistency, and the contour of the nail, and... the Technician will do a lot less filing.

1. One area of concern is: do you use the Pterygium Stone after Etching with the Purple Terminator 100-grit file?
     a. If you leave Pterygium skin, it can soak up primer like a sponge.
     b. This can cause sensations like: itching, burning and cracking.  (Sometimes referred to as an "allergic reaction")
     c. Itching, burning and cracking is usually due to too much primer.

2. Blot the primer brush on a towelette before applying the primer to the natural fingernail.
     a. When you do not blot – too much primer can be released onto the natural fingernail, and can be soaked up like a sponge, by the pterygium skin, and sucking the primer underneath the cuticle skin.
     b. The primer can also run over the tip of the free-edge and soak into the hyponychium skin, on the underside of the natural fingernail, and cause burning. 

3. Has the client started any new medication?

4. Is the client exposing their hands to any chemicals, or new chemicals?

5. Are you performing a service before the application of the acrylic nails; like: a Manicure? Or a Pedicure?

6. What are you using to remove polish and/or top-coats?

7. What primer are you using?

8. IF the finger tips start to Burn... Neutralize the primer.
     a. In a bowl: mix 1 tablespoon of regular “baking soda” to 1 cup of tap water, and put clients fingers into this solution.
     b. Put fingers into bowl for a few minutes, to neutralize the primer.
     c. Regular Baking soda (like Arm & Hammer) and water should neutralize the primer enough to stop the burning.

9. Sometimes the cuticles & or the fingers can get red, inflamed, itchy & burning, even after the client leaves the Salon.
     a. In this case the client can also mix the same solution of "Baking Soda & Water" and soak their fingers at home.

10. A lot of people will refer to this “red, inflamed, itchy & burning sensation” that is usually caused from “over-priming”, as being an allergic reaction.

11. Keep these notes handy.

12. Note on Drills – NEVER use the drill to Etch the natural fingernail:
     a. The drilling of the natural fingernail causes thinning of the fingernail and can allow the primer to penetrate the natural fingernail. (See #9 above for reaction.)
     b. NEVER allow a drill to be used to Etch your fingernails.
     c. ALL Etching should be done with a hand-file, like the “Purple Terminator 100-grit” file. (See #1 above.)


Primer Application & Cleaning of the Primer Brush

1. Application: When the primer brush is removed from the primer bottle, it must be wiped on a towelette before applying the primer brush to a clients natural fingernail. 
WHY?
Because applying too much primer to the natural fingernail can cause the primer to flood the fingernail and creep underneath the cuticle skin and cause burning.  See Primer & Burning, under Allergic Reactions.

2. Cleaning: Since the primer brush comes into contact with the fingernail, after the fingernail has been etched and dusted, the primer brush attracts little tiny particles of keratin cells and skin still left on the nail-plate.  Though microscopic, these tiny particles can build up in the primer bottle, thus diluting the effectiveness of the primer, over a period of time.
What to do?
Wipe the primer brush on a towelette BEFORE placing the primer brush back into the primer bottle. 
Always
wipe primer brush before applying primer to fingernail, and wipe primer brush before putting primer brush back into the primer bottle.

To check your primer:
With the primer bottle lid closed securely; turn bottle upside down, then right side up, and look through the bottle to see if there are any particles floating in the primer.  A few particles are not usually a problem, but when there are enough particles to look like snow, the primer should be replaced!


Temperature in the Salon - Hot or Cold 
Optimal Temperature is around 70-72 degrees Fahrenheit (21-21 degrees Celsius)
   
Keeping the "liquid" temperature equalized is important: Use Tammy's “thick“ Deep-Well Ceramic Dappen Dish to contain the Tammy Taylor “liquid”, to keep the liquid from warming up to room temperature as it gets hotter in the Salon. 
 

Note: Ceramic naturally stays cooler, and the "deep well" of this dish stays cooler than a "shallow" dish.


White dish is for Brush Cleaner & Black dish is for "original" and "odor-less" nail liquid.  Note: The Prizma "liquid" also uses a "white" ceramic dappen dish.
Keep the liquid bottle for filling the Dappen Dish in the lower part of your Work Station cabinet, to help keep the liquid cooler than the room temperature in the Salon.  
Keeping the "liquid bottle" in a Styrofoam container, will also help keep the liquid cooler.  
Also as it gets warmer in the Salon, you will find that leaving a little more liquid in your brush when picking up the powder, will make the product flow easier, and the product will not set up as quickly, while you are applying the product.  
When working with acrylic, the acrylic must be wet enough to flow into the "Hills & Valleys" that were made when the natural fingernail was Etched (with the Purple Terminator 100-grit file).  Flowing into the bottom of the Hills & Valleys will make the acrylic adhere better; thus eliminating a lot of lifting problems.

 Having the acrylic product wet enough also allows the Technician ample time to form the "Smiley-Face" across the nail; making beautiful Pink & White acrylic nails.

COLD:
When the temperature is cold in the Salon, and your 'liquid" and bottle are cold; warm the liquid in the bottle by holding the bottle underneath warm running tap water.  

 

Note: When the liquid is cold, and when you apply the product, the product will take a long time to set up & harden.
   
Neutralizing a primer reaction  
Mix:
1 tablespoon of Baking Soda (regular baking soda for cooking) and
1 cup of water (tap water or bottled water)

Submerge finger tips into baking soda & water mixture for 10 to 15 minutes.  The baking soda & water mixture should neutralize the primer, and stop any reaction

   
   

 

 

 

 

 

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