"1 of 2 pages"
Page 1 of 2,
Page 2 of 2
and notes on LIFTING
Problem Nails "Two"
Cuticle Area..., Flip Up..., Nails Feel thin..., Peeling...,
Pterygium Stone..., Soaking off..., etc...
Nail FAQ's by Topic
DRILL: How & When to Use the Drill:
NEVER use a Drill to Etch the Natural
Nail! Drilling the top of the Natural Nail can cause thinning, lifting
& sensitivity of the Natural Nail.
The Drill is ONLY to be used to:
out the Smile-Line
when doing a Pink & White "Backfill" using the Tammy Taylor "Carbide
Pointed Pencil" bit (long or short) or the Tammy Taylor "Backfill Wheel"
the length of
the acrylic nails using the "Carbide Barrel" bit (large or small)
(medium or coarse).
fingernail that sometimes can separate from the acrylic under the
free-edge using the "Carbide Barrel" bit (large or small) (medium or
the underside of the free-edge on the acrylic nails using the "Carbide
Barrel" bit (large or small) (medium or coarse).
using the "Carbide Barrel" bit (large or small) (medium or
Cautions with the
say the average speed is about 15,000 RPM's; this equals 250 revolutions
per second. When you place the drill bit on the natural fingernail, and
count to one, the drill bit has already spun around 250 times. In 250
revolutions, a lot of natural fingernail can be removed; thus thinning
the natural fingernail
Non-Lifting nails with the LEAST amount of Natural Nail Damage:
with a file, such as the Tammy' Taylor "Purple Terminator 100-grit
Etcher” file and use "wet" Tammy Taylor Nail Primer.
Etch little "Hills & Valleys" onto the surface of the natural nail that
the acrylic product can flow into, thus creating a good sticking
you allow the "primer" to be wet when the acrylic is applied, the primer
can mix with the acrylic, causing a chemical reaction that creates a
strong adhesion to eliminate lifting of the acrylic nail product.
Disposable File System for Etching, in
the Topic area above
What to use, How &
1. Etch the natural fingernail only with the Tammy Taylor
"Purple Terminator" 100-grit file.
And only Etch the natural fingernail in the direction in which the
fingernail grows, from the cuticle area to end of free-edge and back.
- NEVER Etch across the fingernail (side-to-side) - This side-to-side filing action can shread the natural fingernails, and cause nails to become thin & weak.
2. Etch the natural fingernail along
the nail-groove & around the cuticle area with the Tammy Taylor
"Pterygium Stone". The Pterygium
Stone helps remove pterygium skin, that can cause the acrylic nails to lift
around the edges.
- Pterygium Stone helps "prevent" Lifting
An important detail
about Etching & Application:
the same time Etching is being done, the cuticle skin is also being
shoved back; from 1/32" of an inch to 1/16" of an inch (0.8 mm to 1.6 mm).
2. Fresh natural fingernail growth has just been
exposed to the air during Etching, as you shoved the cuticle skin back.
This new growth of the natural fingernail is still moist, and acrylic will not stick to the new growth
a. It takes a few days for this newly exposed natural fingernail to dry firm.
3. This is the reason that you DO
NOT apply the acrylic product "too close" to the cuticle skin.
4. IF acrylic is applied "too close" to the cuticle skin, the acrylic product will Lift.
5. Solution: When you apply the
acrylic product, keep the acrylic away from the cuticle skin at least
1/32 of an inch (0.8 mm, the thickness of 2-3 business cards).
6. 1/32 of an "inch" is probably the most overlooked
item when it comes to Etching the natural fingernail and applying the
acrylic nail product.
a. Reason why the "1/32 of an inch" (0.8 mm) is
overlooked: Most Nail Technicians tend to be a bit of a
perfectionist, and they feel that they must get the acrylic product
right next to the cuticle skin, so their acrylic nails will look
b. Too close = Lifting
7. What happens to Cuticle Skin that was shoved back?
- The cuticle skin
will come forward after the client leaves the Salon, and has washed & dried their hands a few
Greenies: If the acrylic product is applied too close to the
cuticle, the cuticle skin will be on top of the acrylic
product after a few hand washings. Along with LIFTING, the cuticle skin can also cause a humid environment,
and this "humid environment" can help pseudomonas ("the greenies") to grow.
8. The above items, #1 thru #7, are very important to understanding "how and why" you need to Etch, and the best Application technique for the acrylic
References to review in Tammy's Nail FAQ's by
Pterygium Stone - see Problem Nails
- Thin fingernails
are smooth, and thin
fingernails need more care when etching.
Always use the Etching file that Tammy suggests (see
Etching). Thin fingernails are weaker, so they
need more product, because the strength is in the product.
Note 1 on
Thin fingernails: Be careful when you Etch a thin fingernail
and you will have practically no lifting. Because if lifting
occurs, the thin fingernail will get thinner. And the thinner a
thin fingernail gets, the more easily acrylic with lift from the
nail-plate. Then the lifting will cause the thin fingernail to get
Note 2 on Thin fingernails: As you
will note, a circle is developing. Lifting equals thinning.
Whereas with proper Etching and preparation, you should get practically
no lifting, thus no thinning of the natural fingernail.
fingernails are porous, so thick
more easily. Thick
fingernails are stronger, so the product can
be applied thinner, because the strength
is in the natural fingernail.
Cracking & Breaking
Free-edge or Tips and Smiley-Face
1) Too long
2) Too thin
3) Too flat
4) Filing too much
5) Over-filing sides
6) Filing the free-edge too oval
7) Nails are old
|Note on Cracking
& Breaking at the sides of the Smiley-Face:
- The most common cause of cracking
at the sides is over-filing the sides, at the
smiley-face area. Also making the sides too thin & too
narrow when you are patting the White free-edge.
- The cure for this is to
practice making your White “free-edge” ball in the shape of
a woman's flared dress skirt.
- Practice with nail forms
applied to Polish bottle lids & on Tammy's "Practice Sheet".
Making acrylic nails on Polish bottle lids is also great for
practicing on your Backfills and using the drill.
- The White free-edge ball will
fit the smiley-face area of the fingernail.
- The end of the White free-edge
will be wider than the fingernail, like a flared skirt.
- The sides of the White
free-edge ball will drop slightly downwards on the nail
- When you start filing, the
free-edge will now be a little thicker on the sides, thus
you will be able to file the sides without weakening the
smiley-face area, and you will get an awesome C-Curve.
- This "flared skirt" effect not
only helps you make a really good C-Curve; this C-Curve is a
very important aspect for keeping an acrylic nail strong, in
between fills, even at lengths of 4, 5, 6 & 7 on the Tammy
Taylor nail form.
- We work a lot on this "flared
skirt" technique in the 2-Day Advanced classes.
Main Causes of
1) Contaminated liquid and/or contaminated powder
2) Not using A+ Coat
3) Not removing all polish and top coats completely
4) Acrylic nails are old
5) Sunscreens & chemicals
7) Do Not Use Pump dispensers for
acrylic nail liquid
8) Do Not Use a Pre-prime
9) Do Not store acrylic nail liquid and
acrylic nail powder in a too close
proximity to each other. See below for storage notes.
Note about #3: To make sure the
acrylic nails are clean of top coats; after removing top coats with Tammy' s
"Polish Remover", smooth the top of the acrylic nails with Tammy's "180-grit Long-Lasting Zebra" file.
Note on #4: About every 2nd
or 3rd fill, the top of the acrylic nails should be filed
down a good amount, to help prevent
yellowing as the acrylic
nails get older (see #4).
Note about #5: Use Z-Coat to protect the A-Coat.
Note about #8: Do not use any type of spray between Step #6
& Step #8.
Liquid (monomer) - Since fumes can escape from
the acrylic liquid bottle, acrylic liquid should be stored on a shelf
above the acrylic powder.
Rule of thumb: Liquid's should be stored on shelves above powder's.
Primer can be stored on the same shelf as the liquid.
Powder (polymer) should be stored on the lower shelves, as acrylic
liquid fumes can cause discoloration and clumping to the acrylic powder.
Forms should be stored on the lower shelves, to keep any liquid fumes
from damaging the adhesive on the forms.
Added note: DO
NOT LOAN out your bottles or jars of products, especially your Liquid
(monomer). Sometimes a Technician in a hurry may dip their brush
into your liquid bottle to make a nail. This can cause the liquid
to get contaminated. Contamination can cause yellowing.
Solution for Liquid (monomer): Squirt a little liquid into their Dappen Dish.
Solution for Powder (polymer): Scoop a little powder into their jar.
Solution for...: Put whatever the
into their container.
Also: If you loan out your brush, it may
come back with a few hairs missing.
Basically: All of your products & supplies
are your Working Tools. You are responsible for your working
tools. Your clients suffer if your tools are not up to par.
matter how good their intentions, other people have a tendency NOT to
have the same respect for your tools as you do.
Rule of Thumb: Never loan out
anything that you do not have a spare! And never expect someone
else to treat your tools as kindly as you do. It is simply not
practical, and in the end you
are responsible for your own tools.
Tammy Taylor Products Needed:
|- Ceramic Dappen
- Conditioning Polish Remover
Your Choice of Fragrance
- Non-Lifting Nail Primer
- Tammy's Towelette's
- Primer Bottle Holder
- Crystals - Clumps
Q: Specks or Crystals, Clumps, Particles in acrylic powder
A: Any Specks or Crystals, Clumps, Particles in acrylic powder is
usually from leaving the powder container open during filing.
To remove from this from your powder,
use a very fine sifter, usually you can find this type of sifter at a
Q: Crystallization (crystallizing)
A: Some acrylic products crystallize in cold weather, Tammy Taylor
acrylic "does not"
crystallize; that is one of the reasons it is so popular with Nail
Tech's who live in cold areas.
Rule of thumb for acrylic nail liquid: The optimum temperature is
72 F degrees; when liquid is colder, the acrylic nails set up
slower; when hotter, the acrylic nails set up quicker.
Note: Even though the room temperature may be 68 F to 72 F, the
Client's finger temperature may be quite warm or quite cold, also
causing a difference is set-up time.
causes: plus Fill-Lines & "Shadows"
& Popping off (another term for Lifting)
Main Causes for "Lifting":
1) Making acrylic nails Too long
2) Not etching properly with 100-grit Purple Terminator file &
Not etching with the T.T. Pterygium Stone,
which etches away the pterygium skin around the cuticle area.
Lifting notes 1 & 2:
Lifting Note 1:
There is a thin membrane of skin called "pterygium", and
this membrane of skin is extremely thin, and it covers the keratin cells
of the fingernail as the fingernail grows out from the matrix,
underneath the cuticle skin. This membrane of skin needs
to be etched from the nail-plate, otherwise lifting can occur,
especially when the Technician places the acrylic too close to
the cuticle skin. (keep acrylic away at least 1/32 of an
inch; about the thickness of 2-3 business cards)
Lifting Note 2: After
Etching with Tammy's Purple Terminator 100-grit file, it is best
to then Etch along the nail groove and around the cuticle skin
area with Tammy's "Pterygium Stone".
3) Applying acrylic product after 2nd coat of primer has dried.
4) Product placed too close to cuticle
skin (acrylic must stay away
from cuticle skin at least
1/32" of an inch) (1/32" of an inch is about the thickness of
2-3 business cards).
5) Using a Pre-Prime can cause
lifting - Do Not use pre-primes
- And Do not use a spray pre-prime to spray the fingernails.
6) Product too thick at cuticle - You must not be able to feel a
bump at the cuticle area with your own fingernail.
When the acrylic product is too thick near the cuticle skin; the acrylic
will not be flexible and will not bend as the natural fingernail bends.
When the acrylic will not bend or flex, the acrylic will have a tendency to lift.
(Lifting at the cuticle area can cause pseudomonas, aka "the greenies".)
Pseudomonas article is in Tammy's "Nail FAQ's by Topic", under
"pseudomonas" or "greenies".
Link to "Greenies" article "Fungus - Mold - Bacteria.
Link to "Nail FAQ's by Topic".
7) Using a cosmetic brush
can cause lifting. Never use a cosmetic
to dust off the fingernail after
Etching with the Purple Terminator 100-grit file, or the Pterygium Stone.
8) The Tammy Taylor 'Pterygium Stone'
is very important to help remove
the pterygium skin from the surface of the
natural fingernail, along the nail-groove & around the cuticle skin area.
9) When "acrylic" nails are old,
the acrylic can start lifting.
Solution: Soak off
old acrylic and apply a new set
of Pink & White acrylic nails.
10) Mixing product brands from different manufacturers
can cause lifting.
11) Do not nip unless it stands up and waves at you.
Over-nipping can cause lifting.
12) An often overlooked cause of Lifting is
contaminated primer. Although rare, this can happen,
especially if the Technician does not wipe their primer brush after
priming the fingernail before placing the primer brush back into the
primer bottle. Please see "Primer
Application & Cleaning of the Primer Brush".
Fill-Lines & Shadows:
Note 1: Lifting can cause fill-line shadows.
eliminate lifting, you will have fewer problems with fill-line shadows.
If you still have fill-lines:
At fill-in time, apply primer to the
acrylic before filing. The primer will soften the acrylic so you can
file the acrylic smooth
using the T.T. Long-Lasting Zebra 180-grit file.
Note 2: Another cause for fill-line shadows is over-filing the
pink, to get rid of the fill-line. This can cause the natural
fingernail to heat up from the friction, which can then cause the
acrylic, ever-so-slightly, to lift while you are still filing; which
makes it seem that you will never be able to file the acrylic smooth to
the natural fingernail; as the acrylic continues to lift,
even ever so slightly.
Note 2a: The way to counter-act this occurrence is to apply a
small dab of primer on the acrylic to soften it; then file (using the
Tammy Taylor 'Long-Lasting Zebra' 180-grit file);
this allows you to file the acrylic lightly to
gently smooth the acrylic to the natural fingernail and without
friction, as friction causes heat, and further
working together with Primer... Acrylic & primer will work together well "if" both products are wet at the time of application.
1. After applying the 1st coat of primer to ALL nails, let it dry. To keep the 2nd coat of primer wet, the 2nd coat is applied just before the acrylic is applied, the wet primer and wet acrylic will mix & thin, and the acrylic will be able to Flow into the Hills & Valleys that were made when the nails were Etched, using the T.T. Purple Terminator 100-grit file.
- If this 2nd coat of primer dries and cannot mix with the acrylic, the acrylic will "not"
get thin enough to Flow into the “Hills & Valleys”.
- If the acrylic and primer do "not" mix & thin, the acrylic will "not" stick and the acrylic nails and "will" Lift.
Note 1: When acrylic is too thick
or the primer has dried, the acrylic will sit on top of the
"Hills & Valleys",
and the acrylic will "NOT" flow down into the Hills &
Note 2: The slightest air gap can allow for moisture to creep in,
and can cause lifting. Moisture can also cause "the
greenies" pseudomonas - see "Mold".
Note 2a: This slight air gap can also cause the acrylic nails to be more
Lifting, because the acrylic will not adhere to the whole
nail-plate, like in the "Valleys" of the "Hills & Valleys" that were made when nail was Etched.
Solution: Primer must be wet and acrylic must be wet, for both to mix
together properly, to cause up to 100% adhesion of acrylic to the fingernail; including into the
"Hills & Valleys".
2. Caution: When too much primer is placed on nail, the
primer can flow underneath the cuticle skin and cause burning. Too much primer could cause the client to quickly remove their
hands because of the burning, and you would not be able to proceed with the application of
the acrylic nails.
Too much primer should not cause
lifting, but too much primer can cause burning.
3. Consistency is a major factor in the
application of acrylic nails. Tammy has even
made a video dedicated to “Consistency” - “Faster Nails with Product
Consistency” is on Tammy's "Nine Most Popular Nail Procedures" video on DVD.
a. Also see “Consistency” in Tammy’s “Nail FAQ’s by Topic”.
4. PS: Do you have one of Tammy’s ‘Product Consistency’ “Practice
5. If you do not have a Practice Sheet, please
go to Tammy’s “Nail FAQ’s by Topic”,
then click on "P" to go to "Practice Sheet".
On the Practice Sheet page,
you will find
downloadable PDF files of the Practice Sheet in English, Spanish & French.
- Acrylic & Primer working
Primer & acrylic working together & Why?
And WHY, must primer be WET, when acrylic is applied?
Note: Primer must be wet
when the acrylic
is applied. When the
primer is wet, the primer mixes with the acrylic; thus thinning
the acrylic that touches the nail-plate, allowing the acrylic
that is touching the nail-plate to flow into the "Hills &
Valleys", that were made when the fingernail nail-plate was
etched with the T.T. Purple Terminator 100-grit file.
Peeling - the natural nail is peeling away from the
sculptured acrylic nail, under the free-edge. This usually happens after about
3-6 months, or if the fingernails grow curving downwards. Soaking off, clipping the free-edge short, and thenapplying a new set
of acrylic nails is usually what is suggested as the solution. Tammy suggests replacing acrylic nails every 3-4
How to temporarily fix this, before applying a new set of acrylic nails?
Without a Drill: Only do step #2 and step #3.
With a Drill: Do all 3 steps
Step #1. Very lightly, drill the natural fingernail underneath the free-edge
just to smooth the natural fingernail to the acrylic.
Step #2. Apply a thin coating of glue around the edge natural
fingernail, where the natural
fingernail has peeled away.
Step #3. Coat the underside of the free-edge with a very thin coating
of product. This will seal the natural fingernail
to the acrylic nail.
Products needed to make a nail repair: T.T. Tip & Repair Glue
Flip-Up, Curve-Down and Curve-Away fingernails
Problem Nails "Two"
Acrylic nails: You should only need to soak off acrylic nails, and to apply a new set every 3 to 4 months.
The Tammy Taylor "Prizma"
acrylic product is the same as regular acrylic: Soak off every 3 to 4
Soaking off: This link is for only one nail, but it is the same for all acrylic nails. If you choose to soak off all of the acrylic nails at once, you would need a little larger container.
Liquid & Powder differences (PDF file link): Soaking off acrylic nails is typical for ALL of the Tammy Taylor acrylic liquids (monomer) and acrylic powders (polymer).
- Nail Liquids:
Original, S-Set, A+, Xtra-Adhesion, Competitive Edge and odor-less.
Note: The Tammy Taylor “Prizma” colours can be applied using all of her liquids.
Bubbles in the
"Pink" nail-body (nail-bed) area -
Why? & Solution or Prevention! Also "Air Pocket"...
lifting or lifting in the center of the
Cause 1: Cuticle ball of
acrylic product was too dry, or the primer had already dried. When the
area of the fingernail is too dry, the acrylic product will not flow
properly, into the "Hills & Valleys" that were made when the fingernails were Etched. This can also cause lifting.
Cause 2: Cuticle area and nail-body
gets little air bubbles in the acrylic product. This can be caused
by patting; most commonly these little bubbles are caused by not stroking
properly. Stroking from Cuticle area to end of Free-edge, helps to remove any air-bubbles.
Note: Although you may at times need to poke gently at the pink
acrylic product on the nail-bed; Tammy always stresses
"stroking" of the "Pink", and if the consistency is
correct, you should not have to poke at the pink. Pat the White, Stroke the Pink...
Note 2: When you have to poke, push or move the "pink" acrylic product
with your brush, the "pink" acrylic product was applied too dry;
consistency is the key.
Cause 3: When stroking
with a brush that has product clogged in the hairs, the product in the
brush hairs can
create a type of suction.
This suction action is similar to
patting, and can create air bubbles.
Air Pocket (really fast Tech): When a Nail
Technician is really fast at applying acrylic nails, they MUST be very
aware of the temperature of their liquid, and of the air flow in the
Salon. Doing acrylic nails quickly, and not paying attention to
consistency can cause air pockets underneath the Pink acrylic product on
Keeping Brush for Nail Liquid "Clean":
Brush Note 1 (Cause 3):
The reason a brush gets clogged with product is because the brush hairs
are NOT thoroughly dipped into the liquid in the dappen dish.
The brush hairs
MUST be dipped so the brush hairs are all the way into the liquid, totally
submerging the brush hairs, all the way up to the silver
colored ferrule that is crimped to the wood shaft and the brush hairs.
Brush Note 2: When a container for the liquid
is used that does not allow the brush to be
totally submerged, the brush hairs cannot get thoroughly wet. This
means the brush will clog with product build-up quicker.
- DO NOT use a pump-up type liquid container, these do not allow the brush hairs
to get thoroughly wet; brush can clog and liquid can get contaminated.
Brush Note 3: If the
liquid gets thick (contaminated with too many powder particles)
the liquid will not flow into the brush hairs properly. The
brush hairs will become sticky & gummy. In this sticky & gummy condition, the
brush hairs will not stroke the acrylic product properly.
What happens when brush gets clogged?
The brush hairs will attract the acrylic product like a
magnet, and instead of the brush hairs stroking smoothly, the brush
hairs will tug & pull the acrylic product away from the fingernail.
The Technician can also get very frustrated.
Replace the liquid & while cleaning the brush in Brush Cleaner, use another brush that has already been cleaned.
- Most Tech's will have 3 to 4 extra brushes cleaned and ready to use.
This means that any Technician having more than 1 or 2 clients, must
have at least 2 to 3 brushes. Most established Technicians will
have 5 to 6 brushes, and some several more. A
Technician will quickly realize they MUST have an extra brush or two,
just in case a brush needs to be cleaned right NOW.
Brush Note 4: When the
brush hairs are not thoroughly wet, and when you are patting the
free-edge, the product will keep sticking to the brush. This makes
it really hard to make a proper free-edge, and Smiley-Face, and the sticky brush will
cause the Technician to take too much time. The Smiley-Face
can also set up before a good smile line can be made.
Again, too much time is wasted when the brush hairs are not thoroughly
Caution Note 1: If the
brush hairs are not thoroughly wet when applying the acrylic product,
the brush hairs will be more susceptible to attracting acrylic product
into the brush hairs. This is called "clogged brush". The
only remedy is to soak the brush in brush cleaner for at least 10
minutes, or until all acrylic product is removed. Switch immediately to a clean brush.
Caution Note 2: This is
one of the reasons most Technicians doing acrylic nails will have at
least 3 to 4 brushes, that have already been cleaned, and are ready to use
Cost $$$ Factor:
Down-time will cost a Technician $money in wasted
time. Plus, if time is wasted on one client, the
clients that follow will also suffer, because the Technician will be running
late the rest of the day. Running late is not a good way to show professionalism.
Running late can cause clients "not" to want to pay very much for
their services. Note: Running late can mean NO Tip! Everyone suffers, Technicians and Clients.
Keep your brush clean.
Keep your brush wet.
Keep your liquid fresh.
Keep extra brushes (already cleaned) handy.
This keeps appointments
on time. Being on time will help keep energy levels
on a more even keel. You you will look forward to coming to
work. The days will be more relaxing when your
tools work properly, and the product flows smoothly.
Pockets in the Cuticle area of
Cause 1: Cuticle ball of
acrylic product was too dry, or the primer had dried. When the nail-body
area of the fingernail is too dry, the acrylic product will not flow
properly into the "Hills & Valleys" that were made when the fingernail was Etched. This can also cause lifting.
Cause most common: The
nail-body acrylic product balls were too dry.
Solution 1: The brush
hairs need to have more liquid in order to pick up a wet nail-body
Solution 2: See article above: "Bubbles in
the Cuticle area - Why? & Solution!"
reactions - Reactions -
Primer & Burning
Burning - and Reactions to acrylic
- (red, inflamed, itchy & burning sensation
of the fingers and or cuticles)
Note: If a Client has an "allergic" type reaction, discontinue services.
Problems with "heat": Too much primer "and" primer applied too close to cuticle skin.
Ball(s) too big:
Pterygium skin can soak up primer:
Next problem area: Adding too big of an acrylic ball onto the nail-body. When acrylic is hardening, the acrylic becomes "hot" as it sets up; and when the nail-body ball is too "big" it can become too hot.
Note: Tammy Taylor teaches in her Classes to always apply the nail-body using 3-small (wet) balls, as the most effective way to building an acrylic nail. Applying 3-small balls on the nail-body helps with consistency, and in stoking the contour of the nail.
- 3-small wet Balls on nail-body helps the Technician do a lot less filing.
- The 4-ball method:
1-ball for Free-edge and 3-balls for nail-body
1. Pterygium Stone is used after Etching with the
Purple Terminator 100-grit file
a. If Pterygium skin is left on nail, it can
soak up primer like a sponge.
b. Primer on pterygium skin can cause sensations like:
itching, burning and cracking, redness and inflammed.
(Sometimes referred to as an "allergic
c. Itching, burning and cracking is
usually due to too much primer.
2. Blot the
primer brush on a towelette before applying the primer to the
a. If primer brush is "not" blotted, too much
primer can be released onto the natural fingernail, and the pterygium skin and cuticle skin can both soak up primer.
b. The primer can also run over the tip of the free-edge and soak into the hyponychium skin, on the underside of the natural fingernail, and cause burning.
3. Medication can play a part: Has the client started
any new medication?
4. Is the client exposing their hands to any chemicals, or new chemicals?
5. Are you performing a service before the application of the acrylic nails; like: a Manicure?
6. What are you using to remove polish and/or top-coats? (TT Polish Remover w/Conditioners)
7. What primer are you using?
a. Are you blotting the primer brush on a towelette?
8. Neutralizing primer:
- IF the finger tips start to Burn... Neutralize the primer BEFORE you finish the nails.
a. In a bowl: mix 1 tablespoon of regular “baking soda” to 1 cup of tap water, and put clients fingers into this solution.
b. Put fingers into bowl for a few minutes, to neutralize the primer.
c. Regular Baking soda (like Arm & Hammer) and water should neutralize the primer enough to stop the burning.
9. Sometimes the cuticles & or the fingers may get red, inflamed, itchy & burning, after the client leaves the Salon.
a. In this case the client can also mix the same solution at Home, using "Baking Soda & Water" and soak their fingers at home.
10. A lot of people will refer to this “red, inflamed, itchy & burning sensation” that is usually caused from “over-priming”, as being an allergic reaction to products.
11. Keep these notes handy.
12. Note on Drills – NEVER use the drill to Etch the natural fingernail:
a. The drilling of the natural fingernail causes thinning of the fingernail and can allow the primer to penetrate the natural fingernail. (See #9 above for reaction.)
b. NEVER allow a drill to be used to Etch your fingernails.
c. ALL Etching should be done with a hand-file, like the “Purple Terminator 100-grit” file. (See #1 above.)
Primer Application & Cleaning of
the Primer Brush
When the primer brush is removed from the primer bottle, it must
be wiped on a towelette before applying the primer brush to a clients
WHY? Because applying too much primer to the natural
fingernail can cause the primer to flood the fingernail and creep
underneath the cuticle skin and cause burning. See
Primer & Burning, under Allergic
Since the primer brush comes into contact with the fingernail,
AFTER the fingernail has been etched and dusted, the primer brush
attracts little tiny particles of keratin cells from the nail and pterygium skin left on
the nail-plate. Though microscopic, these tiny particles of nail & skin
can build up in the primer bottle, thus diluting the effectiveness of
What to do? Wipe the primer brush on a towelette:
applying primer brush to fingernail, and...
- BEFORE placing the primer brush back into the primer bottle.
Always wipe primer brush before
applying primer to fingernail, and wipe primer brush before putting
primer brush back into the primer bottle.
To check your primer: With the primer bottle lid closed
securely; turn bottle upside down, then right side up, and look through
the bottle to see if there are any particles floating in the primer.
A few particles are not usually a problem, but when there are enough
particles to look like snow, the primer should be replaced (primer is too contaminated to use)!
Temperature in the Salon
- Hot or Cold
- Does "temperature" really matter?
Optimal Temperature is around 70-74 degrees Fahrenheit (21-23
Keeping the "liquid"
temperature equalized is important: Use Tammy's “thick“
Deep-Well Ceramic Dappen Dish to contain the Tammy Taylor
“liquid”, and to keep the liquid from warming up to room temperature as it gets hotter in the Salon.
Note: Thick Ceramic
stays cooler naturally, and the "deep well" of this
dish helps it stay much cooler than a regular "shallow" dish.
White dish is for Brush Cleaner & Black dish
is for "original" and "odor-less" nail liquid.
The Prizma "liquid" also uses a "white" ceramic dappen dish.
| - Keep the liquid bottle in the lower part of your Work Station
cabinet. This helps to keep the liquid cooler than the room
temperature in the Salon.
| - Keeping the
"liquid bottle" in a
Styrofoam container, will
also help keep the liquid cooler.
| - As it gets warmer in the
Salon, leaving a
little more liquid in your brush will help when picking up a
ball of powder. When hot, the product will also flow easier if brush has more liquid, and... the product will
not set up as quickly, while you are applying the product.
|When working with acrylic,
the acrylic must be wet enough
to flow into the "Hills &
Valleys" that were made when the natural fingernail
was Etched (with the Purple Terminator 100-grit file).
Flowing into the bottom of the Hills & Valleys will make the
acrylic adhere better; thus
eliminating a lot of lifting problems.
- With air temperature, either Hot or Cold, practice a few product balls (free-edge and nail-body) on the Practice Sheet; this helps a Technician focus on the ratio of liquid to powder, to make a workable ball.
- Having the acrylic product wet enough
also allows the Technician ample time to form the "Smiley-Face"
across the nail; making beautiful Pink
& White acrylic nails.
When the temperature is cold
in the Salon, and your 'liquid" and bottle are cold; warm the
liquid in the bottle by holding the bottle underneath warm
running tap water.
- Note about clients that get cold easily:
- A small portable foot heater, or a couple of already warmed terry towels wrapped around the feet, can be a tremendous help.
- A couple of warmed terry towels
wrapped around the hands, about 10 minutes before a Service, can also help.
Note: When the liquid is cold, and when you apply the
product, the product will take a long time to set up & harden.
Neutralizing a primer reaction
1 tablespoon of Baking Soda (regular baking soda for cooking) into
1 cup of water (regular drinking water, tap (faucet) water or bottled)
Submerge finger tips into mixture of baking soda & water
for 10 to 15 minutes. The baking soda & water
mixture should neutralize the primer, and stop any reaction.
- Neutralizing primer must be done at the time a burning sensation is noticed, NOT after the Service.
- Also, please visit Tammy's Video Library page, with full descriptions of all of her
videos, now on DVD.
“Nine Most Popular Nail Procedures”
This video is so impressive. It shows an extreme nail-biter,
with balls of skin overlapping the nail. Leaving Tammy only
half of a nail-bed to work with she creates a beautiful Full Set of
Pink & White Sculptured nails. When a nail-biter has a
beautiful set of sculptured nails, they will never want to bite
their nails again. Nail Techs that can do nail-biters without
using tips, will definitely be looked upon as the best Nail
Techs in town. And, this video shows how easy it is to do and
how drastic the difference is.
- Note: Tammy's video, showing her doing a Full Set of Pink & White sculptured acrylic nails on a nail-biter
is no longer available. The video “Nine Most Popular Nail Procedures” does show Tammy applying one Pink & White sculptured acrylic nail on the nail-biter.
Nail-Biter (Before & After):
Tammy did apply the Full Set of Pink & White sculptured acrylic nails on the nail-biter hands pictured below, the video will only shows Tammy doing one acrylic nail.
|Although, the finished picture above was done with
Whitest-White & Dramatic Pink, Tammy would prefer for
"Nail-Biters", to use the Prizma colours to cover
P-112 Buffed Pink & P-124 Pink Snowflake
|If you want to do the Pink & White look:
Use the Prizma P-101 French White and the Prizma
P-102 French Pink.
You can also vary the pink for the
"nail-body" with any of the lighter Prizma "pinks", like
P-112 Buffed Pink, P-124 Pink Snowflake & P-136
|Note on Nail-Biters: Tammy's
"Prizma" colours will help to keep the Client from
biting and picking at their nails; and you can use any
of the Prizma colours as a single color on the
fingernail, to cover any imperfections.